“These days, it seems, wine professionals are disavowing “funky” — especially natural wine’s fiercest advocates,” writes Esther Mobley in the San Francisco Chronicle. “The obvious case against “funky” is that it’s too broad. Does it mean that a wine has a specific microbial flaw, like the spoilage yeast brettanomyces or the mysterious defect known as mouse? Does it mean that it smells earthy, like soil and mushrooms, rather than fruity, like apples and oranges? Does it describe sensations that recall cider or kombucha? Does it just mean a wine that tastes different, new, unlike what you’d find at the grocery store?”
Elsewhere in the Chronicle, Jess Lander reports on Ardure Wines winemaker Jason Ruppert, who ferments and ages his wines with crystals, a practice rooted in spirituality, not science. He adds “crystals like rose quartz, labradorite and fluorite to his wines while they ferment and age. His goal? Add some extra “good vibes” to each bottle.”
Jancis Robinson makes the case for canned wines. “Glass may be usefully inert for wines that were meant to be cellared for years, but for the 95 per cent of all wine consumed within months, often hours, of purchase, bottles are increasingly impractical…The production of aluminium for cans makes its own contribution to greenhouse gas emissions, but producing three 25cl aluminium cans instead of a traditional 75cl wine bottle can reduce carbon emissions by 79 per cent.”
Chardonnay is an ubiquitous grape, loved and loathed in equal measure – and nowhere does it reach greater profundity than in Burgundy. In Meininger’s, Jasper Morris looks at how fashions and winemaking have changed there over the years
In the Guardian, Fiona Beckett also says it’s time to reconsider Chardonnay.
In Decanter, Jacopo Mazzeo looks at how Georgia is bringing back its wealth of indigenous grapes.
Pamela Vachon offers a guide to Marsala wine in VinePair. “Given the number of variables in terms of color, sweetness, and age, Marsala wines are necessarily diverse in personality.”
By: Shelby Vittek
Title: Daily Wine News: Funky No Longer Fun
Sourced From: www.terroirist.com/daily-wine-news-funky-no-longer-fun/
Published Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2022 13:00:49 +0000
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